The first collection of Disruptive/Pattern, Gènesi, was shown in "Backstage" format last Saturday 21st November.
“Backstage" was the result of a collaboration between Disruptive/Pattern and A10 where the first fashion collection of the designer Mariola Llúcia Morera i Català was presented accompanied by a series of elements that recalled a backstage of a contemporary fashion show.
The act of producing clothing is understood as an action of responsibility: clothing constitutes an articulated semiotic within visual language and, in this case, is characterized by its symbolic value, becoming an artistic object rather than an object of consumption. Here, the work is the process itself.
As the artist explains: "The compilation of a context allows us to make a hermeneutic exercise regarding the language of clothing in order to later produce within a process of meaning".
The concepts that give name to this project explain the deconstruction of that which is normative and has as its purpose: the disruptive is that which produces a sudden interruption of something, and the pattern can be any design that serves as a model or guide (that is, a particular way of making, building or organizing something). Disruptive/Pattern represents, in short, the contradiction between these two concepts or the rhetorical figure of the antithesis.
The Gènesi collection is made up of nine sets that summarize different investigations by the artist, who bases each piece on different basic fashion starting points such as the lace. The first time that a lace was used in a dress was with a magical and ornamental motivation, with the desire to function as an amulet, beyond wanting to be an expression of modesty as later attributed in Western tradition.
Another example is the pinstripe ensemble: the artist deconstructs the pattern of a skirt-panty worn by women in the late nineteenth century that allowed and encouraged freedom of movement. The piece is based on sewing the tweezers backwards so that the pants are visible from the first moment and the freedom of movement and decision is accentuated.
The pinstripe is a classic fabric in the making of the typically bourgeois suit, or today, in the business man's suit. In this collection this fabric is decontextualized from its conventional application within an ostensive environment, to apply it to other garments, for example to a bulletproof vest.
The camouflage pattern is also rethought in some of the pieces. "Without a defined shape there is no pattern. The organic stain of camouflage is a constant search". These pieces arise from a film essay and the concepts developed in it. This film explores how to form a discourse based on the allegory that is established between different sources of images and audios where the contrast between automatism and freedom is made visible with issues such as the construction of contemporary appearance, influencing sources, stereotypes, etc.
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